Arugam Bay
Since I didn't go to bed until the wee hours of the morning, I slept until 10 AM (could also be a bit of jet lag). I crawled out of bed, took a hot shower (one of the best things to pack when backpacking are shower shoes), After, I headed into town for some brekkie. I found a vegan cafe called Ahimsa, and stopped to enjoy a papaya smoothie bowl. While eating, I spent some time writing and reflecting on this journey and the transformations occurring within. It may sound cheesy, but this solo journey has brought so much light on who I really am and my path right now. Once my belly was nourished, I walked to the beach known as Main Point.
Right when I arrived, I found a group of tourists and asked if they could watch my bag while I go for a swim. Arugam Bay has officially become my favorite place to swim. With the tiny yet playful waves and the warmth of the humidity, and I floated along in bliss. It's also very cool that you can swim out quite far while still being able to touch the sand below. Gazing off at all the surfers, I decided to grab my stuff and walk over that way. I laid my towel down and closed my eyes for some relaxation. Within minutes I heard some Bob Dylan tunes playing in the background. One of my favorites by Bob started playing, A Hard Rains A Gonna Fall. This song holds a lot of meaning to me, reminding me of my road trip days with a love by my side. I took a trip down memory lane with a smile on my face and a dance within my heart. It is beautiful being able to look at the past and feel joy from your memories.
Once the song finished, I lifted my head to see who was playing the music, and gave him a thumbs up. He asked, "you like Bob Dylan?" I replied "he is my favorite of all time", and he said "he is like my priest!" and waved me over his way. I grabbed my towel and joined him. His name is Nano and he, like many incredible souls I have met on my journey, is from Israel. Nano served 5 years in the army and was the commander of the bomb squad. All Israeli's have to serve at least 3 years in the army, and then they typically work for a year and travel after. Nano just came from spending 6 weeks in India and did a silent retreat while he was there. I enjoyed his music, his company, and his conversations so much.
Off to the side, I noticed there were surf board rentals, so I approached to inquire. I asked how much and explained I jwanted to go out for 20-30 minutes and he said "Ok, no charge, go for it" RIGHT ON! I headed out into the sea with the biggest smile on my face. The waves were quite tiny but still enough to ride. I caught 2 on my own and then noticed Nano came to join for his first time! I headed in because I wanted to be with my bag and Nano stayed out for a bit. Eventually, we left the beach with a plan to meet up at 4:15 at my hostel to go to Elephant Rock for sunset. I realized I couldn't find my sandals, but instead of stressing, I walked back to where I originally went for a swim. I didn't see them at first and was about to walk away when I thought to check again, and there they were around the chair.
I walked to have a bite to eat and saw Baba's Restaurant, a local little place with Sri Lankan food. I ordered the kottu, which came with heaps of veggies and dahl. I asked for sauce on the side, thinking I'd get served chili or something, but I received ketchup. This happened yesterday when me and the Aussie sisters stopped for lunch. I've never put ketchup on my rice, or any Asian dish for that matter, but I'm beginning to notice a trend. I tried out the ketchup, but ended up asking for some fresh chili powder, and they made special for me without the fish sauce. The meal was delicious and costed $400 Sri Lankan Rupee ($2.21 USD). I was walking back to the hostel when I saw a little market with fresh produce and pasties, a lot with vegan labels! Veganism is so common out here; the food is naturally vegan unless you add fish, meat, etc. and all the restaurants have vegan options plus coconut milk. I purchased a papaya for brekkie tomorrow and an orange. I sat in the restaurant and ordered a vegan banana and date loaf. Once I finished, I headed to the hostel for a rinse in the shower and then at 4:15, Nano showed up on his bike to go to Elephant Rock.
On our drive, Nano stopped for a Sprite for us and also an ice cream, which we ate while riding on the bike. Needless to say, the ice cream (fruit pop) melted all over us! We saw wild, beautiful peacocks all along the roadside. As we were driving, I was reminded so much of Bali. From the fresh fruit, and mopeds, to the friendly locals and even the bum guns (like a bidet/water hose); the only thing missing are the monkeys. And just as I thought that, we passed by 20 monkeys on the side fo the road! We drove up to them and watched them all skip away, climbing the rocks and swinging from the trees. These monkeys are so big with long tails! I found out later that they are Radura monkeys. After playing with them and appreciating them in their natural habitat, we continued the ride to Elephant Rock, which we didn't exactly know where we were driving, but Nano refused to use a phone. Instead, he would ask locals on the roadside.
We approached Elephant Rock and drove until the road ends, then parked the bike and went by foot. We passed an air force base on our way so occasionally we heard some shooting. We also saw a sign that said "beware of crocodiles" as we began walking the trail. There is a natural creek right by the beach, creating an absolute gorgeous scenery for sunset. We hiked to the top, sat our bums down, and cracked open our sp
rite. Elephant Rock is also a surf point, so we enjoyed the many locals catching their last waves of the day. And I met a girl from Montana, USA! First one in Sri Lanka and 3rd in my total travels so far! Her name was Malika and we chatted briefly before going back into silent mode while appreciating the beauty all around.
Eventually, Nano and I headed back down the rock and onto the scooter. There are so many street dogs here, another reminder of Bali. And they're so cute! We drove back towards town, Bob Dylan tunes playing, smiles on our face, and just like that, in the last light of day, I spotted an elephant walking alone. We stopped the bike, hopped off, and decided to walk towards it, unafraid. We didn't get too close but dang was it incredible beyond words. I've never been so close to an elephant in nature. Pure beauty. We continued driving and headed back to Nano's guesthouse where there were a lot of other Israeli's staying. We visited for awhile and then sat outside Nano's place where he has string lights hung all around. We sipped some Lion Lager while having amazing conversations. He told me stories of the war, taught me a bit about his culture, and expressed his pure love for humankind. He is such a light and gentle soul with so much natural love within him; his energy is contagious!
Nano showed me a card he has carried with him throughout his travels. It's a card for protection, and after explaining it, he handed it over to me. He said "I wish you safe and blessed travels." This was such a beautiful exchange. Shortly after, a song by Eddie Vedder started playing from Nano's phone. I said "Eddie Vedder made the soundtrack for my favorite movie of all time..." and at the same time we said "Into The Wild!" WOW, it's his favorite movie too! From Bob Dylan to Into The Wild, and all the yoga/meditation conversation, this connection was meant to happen! We continued to enjoy each others company for a bit longer until I felt the need for a nap. I headed back to my hostel and stopped for some quick rice and curry from Blue Ocean on my way back.
Once back, I rinsed off in the shower and Johnny had told me to join them outside when I was finished. I agreed, but then climbed up the bed to charge my phone and ended up passing out. I woke up at 3:45 AM so confused! And then passed back out. Clearly I needed the sleep!
